5 Days in Bali: Off the Tourist Trail

For ages, Bali was an archetypal land of plenty, with tropical greenery, ancient temples, and pristine beaches. In recent years, as with every discovered paradise, mass tourism has polluted much of the island's beauty. Dirt roads once inhabited by local farmers have been converted to paved roads full of westerners and Balinese touters. At first glance, it seems Bali may have lost its magic, but if you veer off the tourist trail, there's a good chance you'll find glimpses of the island that once was. This is a 5-day guide to discover what is left of this lost paradise.

Days 1 - 2: Ubud

Arrive in Ngurah Rai International Airport in Southern Bali. Depending on what time you land, you can opt to stay in Southern Bali, but I would recommend avoiding it all together. The beaches in Kuta are polluted with rubbish, and Seminyak is no more than a resort town full of pricey shops and aggressive touts. I would recommend taking an uber straight to Ubud, about one hour drive from the airport. Ubud is by no means free of tourists, but the western influence is welcoming and subtly interwoven with the Balinese culture and serenity. You are surrounded by lush jungle and remote rice terraces but afforded the tranquility to enjoy nature among yoga classes, outdoor spas, and spiritual centers. There are a few sights to see in Ubud, but I recommend spending most of your time taking in the simple serenity.

Sights

📍Pura Taman Saraswati (Temple)

📍Ubud Monkey Forest

📍Campuhan Ridge

📍Yoga Barn

Food

*advance reservations needed

📍Restaurant Locavore*

📍Mozaic Restaurant*

📍Cafe Wayan

📍Sari Organik

📍Nasi Ayam Kedewatan

Spas

📍Cantika Spa

📍Dragonfly Village

📍Karsa Spa

Accommodations

*Villas in Bali are affordable and best booked through Airbnb (Zen Hideaway), but if you prefer a conventional hotel, these are my recommendations:

🛏️Luxury: Four Season Resort Sayan, Hanging Gardens, Viceroy Bali

🛏️Boutique: Rice Jogolo (eco lodge), Bambuh Indah (eco lodge), Maya Ubud

🛏️Budget: Cahaya Villa, Bliss Bungalow

Day 3: Eastern Bali

Today you will temporarily leave the comforts of Ubud to explore the mountains of Bali. You will begin your day by conquering Mt. Batur, an active volcano to the north of the majestic Mount Agung. Your hotel or any tourist center in the city should be able to arrange a driver and guided tour for the trek. The driver will pick you up at 2 AM for a two-hour sunrise trek that will end with spectacular views of the crater and the crystal blue waters of Lake Batur. After your descent, you’re ready for a hearty meal. As you drive south towards Ubud, stop by Besakih Temple for views of one of the less-traveled but equally beautiful Hindu temples. A short drive east from the temple will have you at Bali Asli, a restaurant perched in a remote corner of Almapura’s green hills. The food is locally sourced and delicious (best known for their nasi campur), but the views of Mount Agung are priceless. The restaurant also holds cooking classes for visitors. End the day with a pitstop at Pura Lempuyang Luhur Temple for additional views of Mount Agung followed by Sideman for an adventure through Balinese rice terraces.

📍Mt. Batur Hike

📍Besakih Temple

📍Lunch: Bali Asli

📍Pura Lempuyang Luhur Temple

📍Sideman Rice Fields

📍Dinner: Ubud

Accommodations:

🛏️Remain in Ubud

Day 4: Northern Bali (Optional)

If you’re willing to stay in Ubud an extra night, the waterfalls in northern Bali are certainly worth the journey. You will need to start the day early as the drive is a little under 2 hours and the waterfalls can get crowded during high season. The markets in Bedugal or Munduk, far removed from the western crowds of southern Bali, are also a great way to experience authentic Balinese life.

📍Bedugal Local Market

📍Lunch: Ngiring Ngewedang Restaurant & Bar

📍Niagara Munduk

📍Gitgit Waterfall

📍Sekumpul Waterfall

📍Dinner: Ubud

Accomodations:

🛏️Remain in Ubud

Days 5-6: Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida is a small island just off the southeast coast of mainland Bali. If you’re reading this within the last year of publishing this post, you may be able to capture the last bit of magic before the tourist wave. The locals often joke that Nusa Penida is what Bali once was several decades ago. I was there less than 18 months prior to writing this, and I am already seeing luxury resorts sprouting up across the island. To access Nusa Penida from Ubud, you will need to take a 30 minute ferry from Sanur (approximately 45 minutes outside of Ubud). The beauty of Nusa Penida is its pure remoteness and raw beauty. Because the island has few cars, it’s the best place to learn to ride a motorbike, and frankly, the best way to get around. The sights are a series of spectacular lookout points that can all be seen in one day with a motorbike. I recommend spending a second day in Nusa Penida diving or snorkeling with the manta rays at Manta Point and ending the day with sunset views at Crystal Bay.

Day 1

📍Angel’s Billabong

📍Broken Beach

📍Kelingking Beach viewpoint

📍Broken Beach

📍Atuh Beach

Day 2

📍Diving/snorkeling Manta Point

📍Crystal Bay (sunset)

Accommodations:

Note: As the island is still underdeveloped, these hotels are not held to the same standard as other tourist towns in Bali.

🛏️Luxury: Semabu Hills Hotel