San Blas Islands: A Day in Paradise
Just two hours north of Panama City lies the San Blas Islands, a stunning archipelago of 365 islands inhabited by the indigenous Guna people. San Blas is easily one of the best kept secrets I've come across in my years of travel. Each island varies in size and development, with some housing communities but the majority completely desolate with nothing more than a palm tree and dusting of sand. The perfectly white sand beaches are made even more magical by the starfish and coral that inhabit the crystal blue waters. The culture of the Guna people is equally beautiful, as they live modestly but with immense respect for the environment. The inhabited islands are powered by solar panels installed by an NGO in 2010 (there was no electricity before this), and coconuts are still used as a form of currency. The Guna people self-govern the islands and have kept them largely protected from tourist invasion and gentrification.
As these islands lack significant tourist infrastructure, day trips from Panama City are common, which is what I chose to do, but if you’re interested in staying overnight, there are a few basic options that will allow you to enjoy the true solitude of these islands for more than a day.
Option 1: Day Trip from Panama City
Take a red eye flight to Panama City that will have you arriving in the early hour morning. Alternatively, spend an evening in Panama City and prepare for an early morning day trip the following day. You should plan to begin the journey from Panama City before 7 AM, ideally by 6 AM. The key to ensuring you make the most of your day in the San Blas Islands will depend on your ability to find a quality driver with a familiarity of the roads and the local people in San Blas. My driver, Nestor (+507 6949 5330), made the journey seamless, picking us up directly from the airport with a cup of coffee and latin pop music to keep us awake. The 2 hour drive isn’t the most pleasant, with winding roads and some unpaved areas, but your driver will likely make a few pitstops on the way. Once you arrive to the islands, your driver should have an indigenous resident of the islands waiting for you at the port. The boat guide will take you to 2-3 of the 49 Guna islands. Our first stop was a small, uninhabited private island where we enjoyed beers that our driver had thoughtfully packed in the boat. For lunch, you will likely eat at a fish shack on one of the more developed islands. This is an incredible experience as the fish is cooked fresh from the ocean and the coconuts picked right in front of you. You’ll spend the rest of your day exploring the remaining tourist islands (Isla Perro and Piscina Estrellas) and snorkeling with the abundant starfish.
Budget Recommendation: There are group tours to the San Blas islands from Panama City through local hostels or you can opt to book a group tour through Guna Yala Explorer. In addition, the overnight boat tours (see below) are wonderful options if you prefer to stay overnight, although accommodations are very basic and the tours are often pricy for what you get.
Option 2: Overnight in San Blas
I was on a time crunch, but I would have loved to spend a night or two taking in the natural beauty of these islands. These are your accommodation options for staying overnight in San Blas:
Sea Bungalow/Cabin ($50-$200/night): The sea bungalows tend to be pricier as they are limited in number, but there are lower cost cabins for budget travelers. It is important to note that even the most expensive bungalows are very basic. Cabañas Narasgandup is a great option for couples. Airbnb also has several bungalow options. If you enjoy camping, these bungalow operators often provide a hammock or tent option, allowing you to sleep on the beach (~$35/night).
Sailing/Speed Boat Tours ($150-$200/night): If you have the time, boating can provide more variety for your trip but can be only slightly less expensive than renting a bungalow. San Blas Adventures will take you sailing from Colombia to the San Blas Islands ($400 total) or you can opt for a local 1-2 night sailing trip with I Travel By Boat or Cacique Cruiser. These tours are generally all inclusive but sleeping accommodations are often simple hammocks on the beach.